Now, as many of you know, miniatures are created by a special breed of people. These people are kept in small closets with low ceilings and fed a diet low in protein and calcium to prevent them from growing, not unlike jockeys and runway models. Their petite, delicate frames allow them to work more efficiently in small scales. The sculptors' closets are lined with monitors, providing twenty-four submersion of relevant source material (military documentaries, Conan, Mad Max, and The Lord of Rings being most commonly used). Within the last few years, as genetic research has advanced, optic DNA extracted from eagles has been spliced with that of the sculptor breed to enhance vision, allowing these sculptors to see the most minute detail in total clarity. Some of the larger companies have also begun bionically enhancing the upper extremities of their sculptors for increased stability and precision. All of this technology is, of course, expensive, leaving some companies no choice but to charge up to $15 for a single figure. Most companies can afford only a single sculptor, and with the sculptors' short life spans, these companies tend not to last long either.
The vast majority of miniatures created in scales smaller than 54mm are sculpted with a two part epoxy resin putty made by Polymeric Systems Inc. This putty is called kneadatite, but is referred to colloquially as "green stuff" (or brown or white depending on the product). Kneadatite is not the friendliest medium in the world, but it remains the weapon of choice for a reason. Kneadatite takes details extremely well. Need to put eyelids on a 15mm figure? Not a problem. Fresh Kneadatite adheres easily to cured kneadatite, allowing for simple application of additional detail. Kneadatite also holds up well under the heat and pressure required during vulcanization, one step of producing miniatures. For those who aren't casting their figures, kneadatite can also be painted over with a problem. A small percentage of sculptors work with other materials, usually polymer clays like Premo or Fimo, but this adds an additional step to the production process, making it prohibitive for most companies.
Kneadatite comes in two parts: a blue component and a yellow component (or blue and white, or gey and brown, depending on the type of putty you have). When the two are mixed, a chemical reaction occurs, causing the mixture to begin "curing" or hardening. Depending upon the freshness of the putty, you will generally have thirty to ninety minutes of sculpting time before the putty becomes unworkable. Initially combining more yellow than blue will create a mixture that is softer and cures more slowly, while using more blue than yellow creates the opposite effect, a stiffer putty that cures more quickly. Each mixture definitely has its place.
After twenty-four hours the putty will be very close to one hundred percent cured. As kneadatite cures, it becomes stiffer, less sticky, and more rubbery. The chemical reaction can be accelerated with heat. Many sculptors use homemade "ovens" to completely cure the putty on a figure in one to two hours, rather than waiting twenty-four. This is especially helpful for those with deadlines. Heating is not recommended for sculpts or conversions that involve plastic, as the plastic has a nasty habit of melting.
Cold temperatures can also be used to slow curing. If you need to stop in the middle of sculpting for some reason, you can stick the putty and the figure in the freezer for a few hours. Remember that unless your freezer reaches absolute zero (it doesn't) the process will only be slowed and not completely stopped. If you happen to forget about your figure in the freezer until the next day, it's probably too late.
So this is what your putty should look like. The current package features the two components separate in a long plastic tube. Some of you may still be using older rolls of putty: a small plastic box containing a long strip that is half yellow and half blue. If you are unfortunate enough to have a blue and white mixture that says "Citadel" on the package, congratulations, you just paid an eighty percent mark-up.
The problem with the old "strip" packaging is that the middle area, where the two parts meet, sometimes cures prematurely, creating small hardened pieces of putty where they shouldn't be. Some people resort to cutting out this middle strip to prevent this. Regardless of whether you cut it out or not, if you have putty with the two components touching, it's a good idea to store it in the freezer.
You will also need tools. You could, hypothetically grow your fingernails long enough and file each one into a different useful shape for sculpting, but if you're into miniatures, chances are you have a hard enough time meeting women, and the freaky nails definitely won't help (especially when combined with that faded "Dungeoncon '84" t-shirt that's getting way too small nowadays). For a far simpler method of scoring tools, talk to your dentist. Why? Because gum disease is one of the top five indicators of heart disease. Why else? Because dentists replace their tools every couple of weeks and throw the old ones out. They'll usually be happy to give you their garbage. And yes, they will have been cleaned and disinfected. If they're not, it might be a good time to look for a new dentist.
Flea markets can also be a good source locally. You might not find the highest quality tools there, but they'll be cheap and you'll just be sculpting with them. If you see your own dentist there, again, maybe time to find a new one.
For those without access to local flea markets and disdain for oral hygiene, Ebay remains a viable option. A search for wax carvers or dental picks should yield several sets of roughly a dozen tools selling for ten to fifteen dollars. Make sure your search is for "wax carv*" so you'll come up with items listed as wax carvers, wax carver sets, and wax carving sets, and ensure the best deal for yourself. Come back in two weeks when your package arrives.
Some companies like Perfect Touch also create tools specifically for sculpting. These are very small and generally more expensive. Larger tools will work fine for most of what you'll be doing, but the smaller tools can be useful for areas such as faces.
Many sculptors make their own tools, but for a beginner, using pre-made tools will help you to understand what types of shapes you need to sculpt certain things. This experience will give you a better idea of what to look for, or make, later.
Besides tools and putty, there are a few other odds and ends you'll need. Steel or brass wire, roughly 20 guage is about right for creating armatures. Everything you sculpt needs something solid under it. The putty will not stay upright on its own. If you don't have a solid foundation underneath, your sculpt will droop like an old woman's... well... everything. Corks are also important. For those not of legal age, they can be purchased at most craft stores. The cork will provide a handle and help you avoid leaving fingerprints in your work. Then again, if you want your sculpts to be readily identifiable, nothing provides security quite like your own thumbprint. Other items you'll want to have around are a pair of wire cutters, a ruler, an exacto blade, water, and Vaseline.
What happens next? Will the blue and yellow ever find happiness together? Where should you put the corks once they're covered with Vaseline? Who's the biggest tool out there? Find out in the next thrilling article: Sculpting Part 2: The Continuation.